“Come one! Come all! To the Saigon Circus!” At least I think that’s what the sign said, hanging in front of the circus tent that is permanently erected in Pham Ngu Lau, the notorious “backpackers district”. For weeks banners advertising the new show hung in the streets so the time seemed right to see what the circus in Vietnam entailed. Tickets ranged from 200,000 – 300,000 VND (aprox. $10 – $15 USD), but the tent is much smaller than the big name shows in the US so there isn’t a bad seat in the house. And despite being so close to one of the heavily touristed areas, there were only a handful of foreigners in attendance.
The show started with all of the performers parading around the ring and lining up behind signs that I presumed noted where there troupe came from. Many of the telltale circus acts were included in the show; a juggler, magician, clowns, different acrobatics, even tightrope walkers.
As I expected, there were a few acts involving animals that are a little hard to watch. The small dogs jumping through hoops are not out of the ordinary, though their lack luster performance is a bit regrettable. Sadly the monkeys and bears are chained to bicycles or other props and clearly are not interested in performing for the audience. This can be expected in Vietnam though, the treatment of animals is not up to the same standards as many places in the rest of the world.
In an act of defiance though, one of the dogs had the last laugh. While the trainer tried to call him to the other side of the ring, this pooch sat idly, staring at her. Despite her persistent beckoning, this furry performer wasn’t going to move until he was good and ready. After about a minute of awkward laughing from the audience, the dog decided to reveal that he had actually not been trying to derail the entire performance, just merely depositing a little something special behind for his caretakers to clean up. The tent filled with raucous laughter and this little innocent act instantly became my favorite part of the whole show.
During a recent trip to Tra Vinh, in the Mekong Delta, my friends and I decided to indulge in some exotic foods for breakfast, including frog curry, sauteed eel, snake stew, and minced snake. My friend John was particularly adamant about eating snake, but we were all excited to try these local delicacies. We chose the Cuu Long Hotel and settled into a large round table under a thatched roof.
Frog Curry
Sauteed Eel
Minced Snake
Snake Stew
It is common in many Asian cultures for people to drink snake blood in an effort to improve their strength, stamina, and masculinity. Knowing this, John decided he wanted to drink the blood of the snake we would be eating. In order to get this message across, we had to draw a picture depicting him being served the snake’s blood. Once this was accomplished, he then had to decide which liquor to drink the blood with. Something we all learned was that when drinking snake blood you mix it in a shot glass with rice wine, whiskey, or vodka. John chose vodka, not for the taste but for the fact that it was the cheapest option.
Tra Vinh is a small provincial town in the Mekong Delta, perfect for a relaxing weekend away from the noise and chaos in Ho Chi Minh City. Even though it is only takes 4 hours to get there by bus from HCMC, most foreigners tend to visit the larger cities in the Delta, like Vinh Long or Ben Tre, making Tra Vinh almost foreigner free. Early one morning, my friends and I decided to take a boat ride to Ben Tre, which according to the hotel owner was only an hour and a half trip. We woke up at 6 am because we were told the boats head out by 7 so we wanted to make sure we had plenty of time to find a ride.
We headed down to the market and started asking boat captains if they were headed to Ben Tre. It didn’t take long before we found someone willing to let us on board. Since these are just cargo boats transporting goods back and forth along the Mekong, the cost was very low for us to hitch a ride. The captain’s starting price was 100,000 dong per person ($5), which we knew was too high. After some negotiating in our broken Vietnamese, we got the price down to 70,000 dong ($3.50), however the boat wasn’t leaving until 9 am, so we had some time to kill in the market.
* An early provincial morning
*Banh Tet – a traditional food from this region, glutinous rice rolled in a banana leaf and stuffed with savory meat
The boat finally departed around 10 am and we were on our way to enjoying a relaxing river cruise of sorts. What was supposed to be an hour and a half turned into a 4 hour journey. No one seemed too bothered though, we had plenty of snacks, hammocks, and a bathroom, which was actually just a hole cut into the floor that went directly into the river. Soon after we set out, we noticed dark clouds ahead and prepared for the rain to come. The wind picked up and we had to retreat inside as the rain pelted the deck.
Once the rain stopped we moved back outside and as we got closer to Ben Tre, the site of towering piles of coconut shells became ever more prevalent. Ben Tre is known for its production of coconut goods, like candy and oils, so there are farms all along the delta. Most of the farms we passed had mounds of coconut shells stacked as high as a two story building and people hard at work collecting even more. All the people we passed would wave and smile as they loaded coconuts onto boats to be transported. Our own boat made a few stops along the way, dropping of goods to homes and local businesses.
Once we finally reached Ben Tre there was only enough time to have a few beers and some street snacks before heading back to Tra Vinh. This involved racing across town on the backs of some very speedy provincial xe oms, just barely catching the city bus to the ferry, then finding a bus that would take us the last 20 odd kilometers back to city at night.
As a Westerner, my idea of an amusement park is one that includes stomach churning roller coasters and endlessly long lines wrapped around every corner. However, Vietnam’s parks are a little less desirable so it’s best to not expect too much. Suoi Tien is about an hour and a half outside of the city and was the destination for my school’s first field trip this year. The kids informed us this park is usually only visited by people in the countryside and is not as much fun as the parks within the city. I decided it would be best to see for myself though and try not to let their input deter me.
When we arrived, the first activity was a tram ride around the park to help get our bearings. The first thing I noticed was how empty the place was. Even on a weekday, major amusement parks I have been to elsewhere still have lots of people around, but we appeared to be almost the only people there. This isn’t a big deal though, it means shorter lines and the chance to see more of the park. Our school had pre-paid tickets for everyone so I was determined to ride these first. We got off the tram at the High Speed Roller Coaster so it was the perfect place to start. I was a little apprehensive when I got on because the shoulder harnesses didn’t actually lock in place. so the only thing keeping me in the coaster was a rusty seat belt fastened diagonally across my chest. I had watched several cars go through already and no one went missing so the odds were in my favor. Also, there were no loops or any sharp turns for that matter so the seatbelt would hopefully be enough. Needless to say I was successful in keeping myself on the ride.
*You may be smiling now but you better hold on tight!
The next ride was Escape From Witch Castle, a “very scary ride” , according to the students. I was skeptical, mainly because it doesn’t take much to scare these kids, 10 seconds from any American horror film would give them nightmares for years. So I joined the group of students walking in and was met by an animatronic zombie with glowing eyes and flailing arms, which had been set off by the motion sensor at the entrance. This sent the kids into a frenzy, which only made me laugh. I slowly made my way down the dark hall with a 6th grader latched to my arm for dear life. We passed some more zombies but mostly it was just a pitch black hallway with some spooky music playing. At the end there was a haunted train ride, which zooms in circles inside a small room filled with spooky trees, zombies, and laser lights.
*The hauntingly misleading entrance.
Next was the Ferris Wheel, a classic amusement park ride. Upon close inspection, the ride seemed sturdy and unlikely to fall apart so we got on. My favorite part about Ferris Wheels is the view from the top and from this one you could see the whole park and out into the countryside.
Walking through the park, I often found myself by towering statues of stereotypical Asian figures, though they often appeared to serve no purpose. Often times they were awkwardly placed to fill space and add the to mystery of the park.
In the afternoon we attended the sea lion and dolphin show. I was hesitant at first, Vietnam does not have the highest standards for taking care of animals so I was afraid I might see something disheartening. Thankfully the opposite was true and the animals looked happy and well taken care of. The show included the usual, jumping through hoops, spinning in circles and such. It was when the dolphin jumped through a ring of fire that I started to question the trainer’s ethics, but it was still impressive none the less.
But my two favorite oddities had to be Ring The Golden Bell and The Ice House Palace. At Ring The Golden Bell, you ring a golden bell next to a pool filled with large fish. The fish, having heard the bell, begin to gather. At this point you buy a bag of fish food for 10,000 VND ($0.50 USD) and pour it in the water, causing the fish to pile on top of each other in an attempt to eat. At every amusement park I’ve been to in Vietnam there has been some variation of an “ice house” or “ice palace”, but the one at Suoi Tien is by far my favorite. Not only is there sledding, but techno music blasts from the speakers while neon laser lights flash all around the room.
The Cu Chi Tunnels are about a 2 hour bus ride outside of Ho Chi Minh City in the Cu Chi district. This area is much more rural and lush with vegetation, perfect for farming. The district of Cu Chi has a much more relaxed lifestyle and slower pace of life which is nice if you want to get out of the chaos of the city. It is also an area in Vietnam where you can see tunnels dug underground, remnants of the Vietnam war. Several of these tunnels have been preserved and turned into a historically protected area to educate people on life during the war. The tunnels were used by the supporters of the Communist North as a type of guerrilla warfare against the American troops. Land in this region is very soft, making it easy for a person to dig tunnels through it. The tunnels are only big enough for a person to crawl through on their hands and knees and pitch black. Those in the tunnels had to be very careful while traveling underground because it was very easy to get lost and disoriented. However, they were also very well hidden so it was ideal for ambushing unsuspecting soldiers who would be caught so off-guard that they would have no idea where they were even being attacked from. Entrances to the tunnels are small crawl spaces covered by leaves. The only way to enter the small opening is by holding the wooden cover over your head, with your arms straight above you as you lower yourself in.
In addition to the tunnels, the Vietnamese soldiers were quite crafty in creating traps in the jungle by digging deep holes filled with sharpened pieces of bamboo and then covering the hole with a trap door. The bamboo was sharp enough to impale a person so often times Americans had to be left in the traps because there was no way of safely removing them. Several of the tunnels open up into larger underground rooms, some of which were used for making weapons. They would use American bombs and ammunition to create weapons of their own design. All of this was of course done underground so no one would be able to see what they were doing.
Another tourist attraction at the Cu Chi Tunnels is the firing range. Here you can purchase bullets to fire from Vietnam War era weapons, like M60s or AK47s, in a shooting range. This is live ammunition so special precautions are taken when tourists are firing them. All the guns are secured onto a railing and you are required to wear ear protection to prevent damage to your ears. Despite these precautions you still feel and hear the immense power of these weapons. Even when only 2 or 3 guns are being fired at once the sound is jarring. It is scary to imagine what it was like for soldiers fighting during the war, with hundreds of weapons being fired at once in a land that is completely foreign and filled with traps.
The Cu Chi Tunnels are a great place to learn more about the lengths the Northern Vietnamese regime went through to ensure victory over the South during the Vietnam War. It is truly impressive everything the people were willing to do to fight for what they believed in. It is important when visiting a place like this to understand you may not agree with all of the outcome of the war, but instead should be open to learning a different perspective. Tours are easy to book and cost about $10; this includes transportation, tour guide and entrance in to the park. It is also very hot and humid and the ground can be muddy in some places so dress accordingly.
Fairy Stream (Suoi Tien), is located in Mui Ne, a small beach town in southern Vietnam. It is one of the least advertised sightseeing spots in the area, so while most people are heading to the sand dunes in droves, Fairy Stream offers a more peaceful day time adventure. It takes about 15-20 minutes on a bicycle to get there on the main road so it is fairly easy to find. Heading east you pass over a small bridge which is your clue to stop and look for a faded sign on the left hand side of the road that says “Fairy Stream”. You can park your bike for 5,000 VND and then stock up on snacks and drinks for the journey. There is also a place at the entrance to the stream to leave your shoes since you will be walking in ankle deep water the entire time. There are several kids trying to be your guide, however it is a straight shot to the end so it isn’t necessary to hire one. After a couple minutes of walking you will be presented with the opportunity to ride an ostrich if you are up to the challenge.
The stream leads you along a winding pathway with bamboo and palms on one side and brightly colored sand dunes on the other. The colors in the sand range from bright red to milky white to charcoal black, making beautiful patterns and colors when they swirl together in the stream. At the end of the trek is a small waterfall, usually filled with children jumping from the rocks into the shallow pool below. Above the waterfall is a grassy area perfect for a picnic and a cold beverage.
When traveling in Southeast Asia, a popular way to stay is in an authentic living environment called a “home stay”. A home stay is run by a local family who goes through great lengths to provide their guests with a relaxing and traditional experience. While in the Mekong Delta I stayed at the Ah Khanh Blueberry Home Stay during the Christmas weekend, which turned out to be the perfect time to stay because we were pretty much the only guests. There were several outside seating areas, tropical fruits growing and chickens running around to make me feel like I was getting to experience the “real deal”.
* This is the freeway we had to cross in order to get to the entrance to the neighborhood the home stay was in. The traffic in the Mekong was much less hectic than in Saigon.
* Walking through the neighborhood to get to the home stay.
* One of the dining areas.
* Some of the grounds surrounding the home stay. Most homes in this neighborhood have canals winding through their property.
* A sign pointing to the home stay. The little girl is the daughter of the owner.
*Our room, mosquito net and all.
* They told us these were blueberries, they don’t look very blue though.
* Honeybees
* Coconuts floating in the waterways next to the sidewalks by the home stay
*Chickens are a common pet in Vietnam
* A very large Jack Fruit
* Cocoa leaves
If you are interested in staying at the An Kahn Blueberry Garden Home Stay, please contact the manager Dong: ankhanvuondau@yahoo.com
After the snake farm we headed to “The Big Buddha” at a temple in the Mekong Delta. The temple’s architecture was built in the same fashion as Cambodian temples with ornate decorations and lots of shiny gold. This Big Buddha is one of three in Vietnam, the other are in Nha Trang and Da Nang. All three were designed by the same man who, at the age of 75, lives in Da Nang. The Big Buddha is the Happy Buddha, which represents – of all things- happiness. I visited the Nha Trang Buddha a few months ago and was equally blown away by the size and beauty of the Mekong Buddha.
* Me, my mom and the Big Buddha
* Happy Buddha
The grounds surrounding the temple were decorated with perfectly manicured gardens and several other buddha statues.
* This Buddha protects fisherman while they are away at sea
* A shrine made of rocks from the centrals regions pieced together with conrete
*Figurines inside the shrine
* On each piece of white paper, people have written the names of deceased relatives they wish to pray for
On our first day in the Mekong Delta, our tour guide took us to a snake farm. This farm is owned by the military and is home to thousands of highly poisonous cobras and vipers. These snakes are used to make anti-venom for those who are unfortunate to meet them in the dark, dank jungles of Vietnam. Rows of little concrete huts lined the walkways throughout the farm so it was easy to get up close and personal with some of the most deadly snakes in the world. At one point, a cage my mom and walked past had a very active cobra who actually hissed and lunged towards the cage door. Luckily it wasn’t a spitting cobra our guide informed us so there was nothing to be worried about. One of the most unsettling exhibits was an open enclosure filled with poisonous tree vipers, one side green and the other brown. The longer I looked at the trees the more I noticed vipers hanging from nearly every branch.
*Each little hut housed one or two snakes
*This guy did not like us
*How many brown vipers do you see?
*How many green vipers do you see?
The snake farm had several other animals as well, including ostriches, monkeys, guinea pigs and an enormous albino turtle.
Of course what snake farm would be complete without the infamous Snake Wine available for purchase. This is rice wine bottled with the carcasses of dead snakes. Traditionally this wine was intended for the macho men to drink in order to improve their strength and demonstrate their toughness. Now it is novelty item that can still be sold for a fairly high price. Some bottles may even contain dead scorpions and birds.
This year Christmas for me was spent away from my friends and family. Luckily, my mom came out to visit so I got a little taste of home. We traveled to the Mekong Delta, only an hour and a half away from Ho Chi Minh City. One of the highlights of the trip was our Christmas Eve church service, where we proved to be more of an attraction than the seizure inducing lights, oversized baby Jesus in the manger or baby Santas running around. The Christmas pageant was one I will never forget. It started with the story of Adam and Eve, so I thought for sure this was literally going to take all night. However, once Adam and Eve were banished fromt he garden the story jumped ahead to a very pregnant Mary. She and Joseph found a room at the inn, which in the Vietnamese version is actually a cave in a very large mountain decorated with Christmas lights. This of course was followed by a dance performed by small children in Santa outfits and star wands pointing to where the baby Jesus had just been born. The grand finale was of course fireworks being shot from the front of the stage, much like the end of a Justin Bieber concert.
This was an interesting twist to a story I thought I knew all too well. I’m glad I was able to learn a new perspective on “the reason for the season”, especially since being away from home made the holidays seem less festive. Enjoy the videos taken in front of the church my mom and I attended and have a happy and safe New Year.
